Passchendaele Bouldering Guide

Located near Stanthorpe and in the heart of Queensland's Granite Belt, Passchendaele State Forest is a newly developed bouldering area for climbers of all levels.

Peter Crane on the first ascent of "Liminal" (V7/7B) at The Lane, Passchendaele.

Important ACCESS information

HQ Plantations act as land manager for all the bouldering locations listed below. They operate as Plantation Licensee under the terms of the Forestry Act 1959, and are thus obliged to permit, but not necessarily promote, recreational access. However, climbers should understand that the primary purpose of a State Forest is timber extraction rather than recreation, and HQ Plantations have legislative authority to restrict recreational access from time to time where timber harvesting operations presents a hazard to the public. Furthermore, HQ Plantations are required to recognize all roads within the licence area as public roads. However, they have authority to temporarily restrict access for the reasons already given. Please recognise the authority of any signage that restricts access. Please obey the instructions of the Plantation Officers who patrol the area. Should you feel that any restriction is unjust or unwarranted, contact ACAQ, president@climb.org.au, and we will take up the matter for you.

Chillaz athlete, Madeleine Eppensteiner, making the first female ascent of Wild Honey (V10/7C+) at The Lane, Passchendaele.

The SECTORS

Aside from a handful of unclimbed projects, the majority of the boulders in the sectors shown below have been cleaned and established. For first timers, a trip to "Middle Sector" is highly recommended. It's the biggest developed sector in Passchendaele with plenty of lines across the grade and style spectrums. For hard lines on pristine granite, "The Lane" will serve you well. While this sector is small, it is rich with quality lines. With that said, Passchendaele is a big place with great problems hidden in every corner of the forest.



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Middle Sector Bouldering Guide

Written & Compiled by Peter Crane
60 Problems
11 contributors
PDF: 19.1 MB

The Battleground BOULDERING GUIDE

Written & Compiled by Peter Crane
12 Problems
3 contributors
PDF: 3.3 MB

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Yuri's Place Bouldering Guide

Written & Compiled by Peter Crane
14 Problems
3 contributors
PDF: 5.8 MB

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Engineering Sector BOULDERING GUIDE

Written & Compiled by Peter Crane
18 Problems
4 contributors
PDF: 5.5 MB

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THE LANE BOULDERING GUIDE

Written & Compiled by Peter Crane
13 Problems
3 contributors
PDF: 6.2 MB

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Grey Havens BOULDERING GUIDE

Written & Compiled by Peter Crane
12 Problems
1 contributor
PDF: 7.3 MB

Pikedale Roadside BOULDERING GUIDE

Written & Compiled by Peter Crane
18 Problems
3 contributors
PDF: 6.6 MB

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Popular problems @ passchendaele

Wild Honey – V10 / 7C+
FA: Matthew Cochrane
Area: The Lane
GPS:
-28.596331, 151.802623

Widely considered to be one of the best quality lines in Queensland. Sit start and traverse the juggy seam, before tackling an tricky, steep sequence. “Fridge-slap” the bulge and mantle to finish.

Parkes & Recreation – V7 / 7B
FA: Matthew Cochrane
Area: The Lane
GPS: -28.596398, 151.803181

Sit start on low, sloping rail and follow arête until you reach the boulder’s highpoint.

The Explorer’s Club – V4 / 6C+
FA: Peter Crane
Area: The Lane

GPS: -28.596398, 151.803181

Stand start to the left on small flaking crimp and head right along thin holds to a juggy top out. A very fun and technical slab.

Liminal – V7 / 7B
FA: Peter Crane
Area: The Lane

GPS: -28.595295, 151.805296

A short yet sweet sequence on perfect granite. Sit start on the positive rail and move up to the pockets. Head right to the arête and throw blind over the lip.

Old Ground – V4 / 6C+
FA: Peter Crane
Area: The Battleground
GPS:
-28.596411, 151.794890

Snug between two large boulders, this problem is one of Passchendaele's best for the grade. Sit start in the crack and follow it out of the cave.

Blue Moon – V4 / 6C+
FA: Peter Crane
Area: Middle Sector
GPS:
-28.599073, 151.796768

A high quality, single move problem. Stand start in the juggy double-pocket and mantle to top.

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Clever Creatures – V9 / 7C
FA: Peter Crane
Area: Middle Sector
GPS:
-28.598838, 151.796444

Sit start matching the positive crimp, the lowest on the face. Move to jagged rail and top to finish.

Torpedo Boys – V6 / 7A+
FA: Peter Crane
Area: Middle Sector
GPS:
-28.599275, 151.795993

Sit start on good, crimpy rail in the middle of the wall. Tricky move up to tiny edge, followed by good moves on positive holds to the top.

Timbre – V8 / 7B+
FA: Peter Crane
Area: Middle Sector
GPS:
-28.598968, 151.795814

Sit start on positive crimps. Follow the good holds straight up to a tricky top-out.

The Shopping Trolley Project
Area: Middle Sector
GPS:
-28.597980, 151.796363

A logical extension to Matthew Cochrane's Shopping Bags (V8/7B+). Sit start low on positive holds, working up and left over slopey and crimpy seams. The poor landing makes the mantle even more awkward.

Curiosity – V8 / 7B+
FA: Peter Crane
Area: Yuri's Place

GPS: -28.599966, 151.795041

Sit start matched low on positive crimp. Move up to a row crimps up, throw to the lip and mantle to top.

Peter's Gravity Project
Area: Yuri's Place
GPS: -28.600286, 151.795224

Sit start on side-pull seam at the back of the steep wall. Head straight up and right through a technical and powerful sequence.

Non-Coherent Integration – V7 / 7B
FA: Matthew Cochrane
Area: Engineering Sector

GPS: -28.599932, 151.793726

Stand start on crimpy side-pull. Move to lip and execute a tricky mantle.

Action Interaction – V6 / 7A+
FA: Peter Crane
Area: Engineering Sector

GPS: -28.599922, 151.793509

Sit start in the juggy seam, climbing straight up to the top.

Prologue – V5 / 7A
FA: Peter Crane
Area: Grey Havens

GPS: -28.608231, 151.796083

Start in the roof crack, back near the mossy section of wall. Follow the crack to the right, before heading over the bulge.

Mercury Sands – V5 / 7A
FA: Peter Crane
Area: Grey Havens

GPS: -28.608539, 151.796046

Sit start on the big rail and throw straight up for the lip. Climb the crimpy headwall to top.

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